The 1937 model uses the aforementioned ‘fastback” frame which
was first introduced in 1936. The frame was used for models such as the Sport or Comet
and was used all the way through 1939 (but only ’37 for Zeps). The frame was built by H.P. Snyder who distributed most of their product through D.P. Harris as Rollfast models. There are a couple of ways to determine if the bike is a Zep. First all 1937 models were black with white
trim and red pinstripes. If the bike is any other color it is not a Zep. Secondly if the fork is present it must have a fork lock which was internal to these forks. There are two varieties of the 1937 bike, an early and a late bike. The early bike uses a frame without the dropstand ‘ears’ on the dropouts and angular truss rods. The late bike uses a frame with the built
in drop stand ears as well as curved truss rods.
For 1938 things become a little more complicated. The Zep was now offered in a couple different colors as well as being made by both Snyder and Cleveland Welding Co. (CWC). While the catalog only list the bike in black and white there are cream and black versions as well. The bikes could also be ordered with a New Departure front brake and two speed as shown on the above bike. All Zeps still had a locking fork but now it is the external type typically seen on CWC products that uses a Wise key. This lock was used on both the Snyder and CWC bikes. The frames between both makers are very similar but two quick tells will be the serial number and the rear fender bridge. The serial numbers of CWC have a distinctive font as well as the numbers are pretty well known as far as dating the bikes and the serial will likely start with “B”, “C”, or “D”. The rear fender bridge on a CWC will be straight across vice a round fender bridge as found on the Snyder built bikes.
For 1939 Wards again used both Snyder and CWC products. To complicate things even further though Wards sold bikes (not just Zeps) with the, new for ’39, CWC shockmaster fork (pic). This fork was optional so you will find Zeps made by both Snyder and CWC equipped with either truss or spring forks. The bikes could also be equipped with either “streamlined” handlebars or “steerhorn” handlebars and also a two speed was available. The frame for the ’39 Zep uses a double bar design. Similar models used this frame but the Zep frame will have two holes on the bar under the tank to mount the battery tray (pic) whereas the other models will not have these holes. Like the ’38 models the Zep will have the external fork lock and be fully equipped. While there are small differences between the fenders and other things on the ’39 models the maker (Snyder or CWC) can be determined the same way as a ’38 model although the serial for a CWC bike will likely start with either a “D” or “E”. Like previous years the catalog only list the Zep in black and white although both blue and red bikes with white trim are found as well. Of the three years the ’39 is generally the more desirable due to its double bar frame and unique tank design with the lit reflectors in the side.
It is their aluminum bikes though such as the Flocycle, Wingbar, and 26X that most collectors covet. Postwar Monarks include the popular aluminum “Hextube” and the Super Deluxe models. Badges: Monarks Silver King, Montgomery Ward, Hawthorne, DeVega, Reggie McNamara, Ace, Mahowald, Airman, Firestone. 1947 Monarch Silver King aka “Hex Tube. I just came across this bike it is a Ward Hawthorne serial number C03641, does anyone have any info on the year and model of this bike? Last edited: May 16, 2015. Montgomery Ward Bicycle Hawthorne Numbers While Montgomery Ward did not actually manufacture the bicycles that they sold, they did commission some unique designs that were exclusive to their stores. One of t he most desirable of these is the 1936-1939 Hawthorne ZEP.
Montgomery Ward Hawthorne Bicycle Serial Numbers Today
Like most deluxe bikes of the era none of these will be inexpensive and nice original bikes will always command a premium. I would caution against buying project bikes as parts have gotten terribly expensive and building one of these from a frameset could easily cost two to three times the worth of the bike when finished. If buying a restored bike there is no way to know for certain if the bike truly began as a Zep unless the seller has pre-restoration pictures that indicate it was a Zep. Hopefully these few words arm you with enough information to pick out a real Zep. Enjoy the ride! Shawn